Identify the type of system you have.  If it's a newer system (5 years or less), it will mostly likely be an ADEMCO, and your keypad will look like one of the above.   So, I will start with ADEMCO.  There are two basic ADEMCO systems that we use:   the 4100 series, and the Vista series.  Most systems two years old or less will be Vista.  Older systems might be the 4100 series.

Here's how you change the combo on a 4100 series system (Note, you have only two seconds between key strokes):

a) Enter master code (four digit code probably not the same as your main user code).   Enter the #8.  Enter the user number (1 through 5 -- remember, you have the ability to have five different user codes with a 4110).  Wait twenty seconds.   You should hear a beep, indicating that you have just removed the old code number in that slot. 

b) Once old code is removed, repeat the above process, except this time enter the new code immediately after entering the user number.  (i.e.: Enter master code (four digit code probably not the same as your main user code).  Enter the #8.  Enter the user number (1 through 5 -- remember, you have the ability to have five different user codes with a 4110).  At this point, enter the new four-digit code.  

c) Test new number by entering it, and hitting the #1 button ("off").   If the number took, the keypad will beep upon hitting the #1.  (Note: This is the same as turning the system off a second time.  It will not generate an alarm.)

Here's how you change the combo on a Vista series system (Note, you have only two seconds between key strokes):

a) Enter master code (four digit code probably not the same as your main user code).   Enter the #8.  Enter the user number (01 through 16 (however many code slots your Vista has).   Wait twenty seconds.  You should hear a beep, indicating that you have just removed the old code number in that slot. 

b) Once old code is removed, repeat the above process, except this time enter the new code immediately after entering the user number.  (i.e.: Enter master code (four digit code probably not the same as your main user code).  Enter the #8.  Enter the user number (01 through ? ).  At this point, enter the new four-digit code.  

c) Test new number by entering it, and hitting the #1 button ("off").   If the number took, the keypad will beep upon hitting the #1.  (Note: This is the same as turning the system off a second time.  It will not generate an alarm.)

(Note:  It is important that you do not insert a "0" before the user code number when changing code numbers on the 4100 system.  The system could go into another level of programming, which is not good.  If you see a "20" come to the screen when you are changing the code, enter "*99, and exit programming.)(Back to Index)

  2--If your system is not an ADEMCO system, it probably is a MOOSE  Z1100.   In that case your keypad probably looks more like this:  

Here's how you change the combo on a MOOSE system:

a) Enter your program code.  This is not the same as your arm/disarm code.  It is quite possible that your program code was written in your manual at installation.  That is not always the case.  Your program code usually looks something like this:
"972683."  It looks a little peculiar in that it starts with a "#9."  Standard operating codes always start with the "#1" with the Z1100.  So, if you are going to change your own codes with the Z1100, you will have to locate your program code.

b) To change code #1, enter program code, then enter the #1, then another #1, then the five digit codes. 

Here is an example of entering a new #1 code:  To enter 123456 as your first operating code, and positing 972683 as an example of a programming code, it would go like this:  Enter 972683. (beeping)  Enter the #1. (beeping)   Enter another #1.  Enter the numbers "2,3,4,5 and 6  (beeping).

Then test 1,2,3,4,5,6.  Enter it on keypad.  If the ready light is on, it will arm system.  If ready light is not on, there will be a long beep immediately after hitting the #6.  If neither occurs, and if there is a long beep after about 12 seconds, the code did not take.  Hit a "*" and repeat test.   If it still doesn't take, repeat the above process ("b").

To change code #2, enter program code, then enter the #2, then another #1, then the five digit codes. 

Here is an example of entering a new #2 code:  To enter 123456 as your second operating code, and positing 972683 as an example of a programming code, it would go like this:  Enter 972683. (beeping)  Enter the #2. (beeping)   Enter another #1.  Enter the numbers "2,3,4,5 and 6  (beeping).

Repeat the process inserting numbers "3" and "4" if you need to use the full complement of four codes on available on the Z1100.

To program a code of less digits, use a "0" as a place filler at end of new code.  This is how you enter a combo such as "1999," as combo number one:  Enter 972683. (beeping)  Enter the #1. (beeping)  Enter another #1.  Enter the numbers "99900"  (beeping).  New number one code:  "1999."

Remember, on the Z1100, the initial #1 is not actually part of the code, it is a numeric descriptive telling the control what you want to do with the number you are entering, much as the initial #9 on the program code designates it as the program code.  That is why all operating combos on the Z1100 will always start with the #1. (Back to Index)

  Finding faulted zones:  You can't get a "Ready Light," and you have to leave.  What do you do?  Obviously, you do a visual to verify all the doors are closed, especially the door through which you intend to leave--it too must be closed to obtain a Ready Light. 

Next, you hit the "*" (the star or asterisk)  on the lower left-hand corner of the keypad.  On the ADEMCO systems this will reset the display, and show faulted zones.  On the Z1100 this will reset the keypad.  On the ADEMCO a faulted zone will immediately show on the keypad.  If there is more than one zone faulted, each will appear sequentially.

With the MOOSE Z1100 you will find the faulted zone by hitting the asterisk, followed by a "#2," (substituting that #2 for the initial #1 of your combo), followed by the rest of your combo.  For instance, if your combo is 1234, you hit the asterisk, followed by 2234.  For about seven seconds, the normal light configuration on the keypad will shutdown, and only the lights corresponding to the faulted zones will stay on. 

For instance, if the door under zones number three is open, and your combo is 1234, this is what you would do:  You would hit the asterisk, followed by 2234.  The third light from the top would stay on for about seven seconds.  You would then know which door was presenting the problem.

With any system, once you have determined which zone was initiating the problem, and if the doors on that zone all appeared closed, then you should go to all the doors on that zone and open close them firmly a couple times.  Look for obstructions (such as snow build-up) that might be holding the door open a little. Then go back to the keypad to see if the system will not set up.  If it will not, it is time to call for service, and consider "bypassing" that zone until it is repaired. (Back to Index)

 Bypassing zones:  With ADEMCO the bypass key is the #6.   This key is used when you want to arm your system with one or more zones intentionally unprotected.  Here is how you do it:  First enter your regular arming cod, enter #6, then enter the number of the zone to be bypassed (01, 02, 03 etc.).   The keypad will display the word "BYPASS," along with the numbers of the bypassed zones.  If you now have a ready light (if you bypassed the faulted zones properly), you will be able to arm your system quite normally.  Of course, the bypassed zones will not be protected, and your system may not transmit the standard "closing" signal, if such signals are programmed on closings.

The bypass will automatically toggle off upon disarm, or failure to arm properly.  Zone bypassing is a very temporary fix, and should be regarded as such.

Bypassing with the MOOSE Z1100 system is handled differently.  To bypass a zone with a Z1100 you enter the "#" symbol (lower right hand corner), followed by the zone to be bypassed (1, 2, 3, 4 etc.).   Once you have done this, and if you have bypassed all the faulted zones, the green ready light will flash, with the longer flash being the "on" cycle.  At this time you should be able to enter your regular code, arm up, and leave.  Zone bypassing will automatically toggle off on disarm.  Again, normal closing codes may not transmit with a closing with zones bypassed.  (Back to Index)

  System Battery changes:  With both ADEMCO and the Z1100 you are made aware of a low system battery at the keypad.  The ADEMCO will indicate on its screen whether you have a low battery, or an AC power fail.  Often the battery problem is a result of an AC power failure.  If you have AC, but your battery is low, the best bet is to call for a technician.  If your 'Low System Battery" indicator comes on, and if you were to lose AC, you would have no system.

With the Z1100, one indicator light covers low battery and AC fail.  It the Power light is flashing, you have a problem.  If its longest cycle stays on, it is a battery problem.   It it is off, it as an AC power fail.  For instance:  System Battery problem if power light is blinking like this:  On-Off-On-Off-Onnnnnnn.  AC problem if it is:   On-Off-On-Off-On-Offfffffff.

In all cases, if the problem appears to be an AC problem, check circuit breakers.  Then be sure the alarm panel transformer (a small 2"x2" electrical device) is securely plugged into a live electrical outlet.

In all cases it is wise to have a technician replace your rechargeable system battery, if that is necessary.

Some systems utilize wireless technologies.   In these cases, if one of the small transmitter batteries requires replacement, it is best to consult your manual for battery replacement directions, or call your alarm contractor.  (Back to Index)

  Strange little noises:  This is never covered in any of the manufactures' manuals, yet I have a hundred times fielded questions about strange little noises thought to be coming out of the alarm keypad, or the system smoke detector.   In every case, the noise was actually produced by a stand-alone battery-powered smoke detector, a pager, or some other similar device.  These battery-powered devices produces shot bursts of  high-pitched tones when their batteries are beginning to fail.  It is very difficult to pin-point the source, so the assumption is that the noise is coming from the alarm keypad.  It never is. 

You can determine this by performing some function on the keypad that will generate a tone.  Usually that amounts to simply striking a single key.  The tone produced by the keypad will always be the same--it has only one piezo sound generator.  Chances are that the low-battery signal on your pager will be significantly higher.  Check under the sofa cushion, you will probably find the guilty appliance.  (Back to Index)

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